With one end touching a dowel, use feeler gauges or a dial indicator to measure the the difference in the short and long diagonals. Then, leaving the adjustable device set to the short length, put it between the longer length. Do a quick check and determine which diagonal is the shortest length and set you adjustable device to touch the inside sides of the dowels on the short dimension. Get or make an adjustable device that will allow you to fit the device between the dowels on the diagonal. What you really want to know is the difference in distance between the dowels.
You really don't care about the absolute measurement. Personally, I don't recommend trying to measure the diagonals with a framing square, tape measuring, scale or similar. They can be arranged as a square or rectangle, since your are looking at the differences in the diagonal measurements. For the sake of accuracy, you want your dowel points to be as far apart as possible. My differences: The CNCRP dimensions for the dowels is much too small. The page with the CNCRP routine is here: Leveling, Squaring, and Tramming Your CNC Machine | Avid CNC | CNC Router Parts. The technique I recommend is similar to the one CNCRP uses, but with some differences. I'd start with checking for mechanical square. Auto square can correct minor mechanical out-of-square conditions without negative consequences, but the more that has to be corrected, the more chance of binding and other alignment related problems. Gantry squaring can be a cause, but only if you are mechanically out-of-square and try to bring the gantry into square with the homing switches. Wildkard: There are 2 steppers on the Y-axis. If its the one with 2, improper gantry squaring can cause jerkiness, as can an issue with one of you motors/cables/driver.
I can't remember which way they set it up stcok, is Y the axis with one motor or 2.
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